The New York Times - In 2011, the New York City restaurateurs Zak Pelaccio and Mark Firth bumped into each other at a friend’s house near here, two hours north and a world away from the city.

They had known each other for years, as pioneers of the Brooklyn restaurant scene: Mr. Firth as a co-founder of the smartly simple Diner in 1999, and Mr. Pelaccio as the opening chef in 2003 at Chickenbone Cafe, an innovative gastro pub in what a New York Times review called “the largely uncharted restaurant territory of South Williamsburg.”

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