The Lovage - Since I was a child and we started our weekly migration upstate, the same phrases have been used to describe Hudson. At cocktail parties, people remarked on its potential, it’s innate charms, its undeniable good looks, and its sad decline—like a promising track star that’s dropped out of school to smoke pot behind the local Friendly’s.

But on a recent visit, I found that the feral teenager of a town had grown into an elegant and erudite young man, one who holds down a intellectual and well-paying job and eschews Big Macs in favor of local cheeses and seasonal organic produce. Lucky for this new Hudson that it has Fish & Game to satisfy its hunger.

What began with one New Yorker opening an antique store on Warren Street in the early ’80s, has become a stampede of cultured and affluent city folk, opting for quieter, more bucolic lives. And if you join that stampede—or if you merely opt to take the Amtrak line from Penn Station for a weekend away from the madding crowd, then you should book a table at Fish & Game as your reward.

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